Columbia finally has a kitchen/cooking store, located in the former PS: Gallery space on Broadway downtown. Unfortunately (from my admittedly narrow perspective), Tallulah’s seems much more geared to the interior designer than the cook. Loads of pretty – and pretty expensive – dishes, decorative items and showy, shiny frilliness are elaborately displayed and bathed in soft, soothing light. It feels like a Martha Stewart photo shoot. For the cook are bloated All-Clad pan sets and $250 enameled, cast iron cookware. Cookbooks are celebrity-heavy and basic. It feels to me like a store for those who don’t cook much, but want their kitchen and dining room to look like they do; more showhorse than workhorse.*
I’ll go back and give Tallulah’s another look, but my first take is this: Columbia still needs a kitchen store.
* Nothing wrong with showhorse kitchens per se; just an observation.