Over the past year Sycamore – which always turned out excellent, reliable food – has become the best restaurant in town. What was once a satisfying but largely static menu has morphed into a kinetic, ever-evolving experiment – and one still very well-executed.
My next Tribune column is on the restaurant’s evolution and how it has brought Columbia diners along for the ride. It struck me that when my mom – an excellent but conventionally Midwestern cook – orders a dish of fried pig’s head and trotters, something is going on. So, is this for real or am I just in the tank?