The topic of an upcoming column, Columbia’s sad lack of a butcher shop remains as vexing today as it did when I whined about it first – nearly a year ago. A place with authority and gravitas and mountains of meat sold by men who know what the hell they’re talking about. I don’t mean the guy at Hy-Vee. Try as they might, it’s not the same and you come to know this the moment you ask about options the far side of the ribeye. They serve a suburban clientele, most of whom are fully content with pedestrian fare. That’s fine, but I want more.
I’ve found it in Jeff City. Weber Meat Market on Missouri Boulevard. The owner had a) actually heard of hanger steak and b) would sell me one the next time he butchered a beef, and c) followed through. Tonight, half dry-aged for ten days in the fridge, it was delicious. Beefy, robust, chewy. Awesome. And still, no butcher in Columbia. It’s a damned shame.