Red and Moe Closing

The word around town is that Red and Moe will soon be no more…closing sometime in the next couple of weeks. They had a decent run since opening in September 2010 – interesting, generally good food and much of it locally-sourced. But quirky hours and a difficult-for-Columbia price-point may have doomed them. Best of luck to Trey and the crew in whatever comes next.

Taste of Elegance, part II

I covered the top three entries in the Missouri Pork Association’s Taste of Elegance contest the other day. Here’s I’ll include the entries that didn’t place (ie, numbers 4-8) in no particular order.

One thing that became evident in the tasting is that the chefs were dealing with conventional, CAFO-raised pork, the hallmarks of which are whiter meat, a tendency to dry out easily and – absent brining and marinating – less flavor than their counterparts on real farms (like Greystone, JJR and especially, Newman Farm). I won’t get into the merits here too much, but the differences are worth acknowledging.

Note: We were scoring on appearance, taste, originality and repeatability (recipes that would be suitable in a busy restaurant kitchen), with taste being the most heavily-weighted.

Here we go…

Bangkok Peanut Pork Tenderloin, Couscous with Pignolis and Chicharrones
Chef Steve Henderson
Hy-Vee, Conley Road

Peanut-flavored applesauce on grilled pork loin. Couscous and fried pork rinds competing for most random accompaniment. It was cooked correctly, but I really don’t know what was going on here. Not a fan.

Trotter Cigars and Consommé on the Rocks
Trey Quinlan
Red and Moe

Trey tends to get a little “out there” with his contest entries, but this one takes the cake. A cigar of trotter molé sauce on an aspic “ashtray,” atop an encyclopedia with a glass of pork consommé “on the rocks” (ie, knuckle bones). It looked prettier in real life, and was fun. I actually thought it worked pretty well – it came in fourth on my ballot – but the other judges were less impressed.

More after the jump.

Dining healthy while dining out

I was on BXR for a few minutes this morning, talking about something decidedly ill-fitting given the weather: eating healthy while dining out. Snow or no, the show much go on.

First off, it’s much, much easier to eat healthy when cooking at home. Restaurants often fortify their dishes with extra butter and salt – more than you’d likely add at home (and often tastes better for it). You’re also less in control of portion size when dining out. It takes more willpower to stop eating and ask for the to-go box than to just serve yourself less at home.

Still, healthy is out there. Here are a few picks for places and dishes that’ll give you a better chance of sticking to your resolutions. It’s a short list and I have a selfish motive for asking for other recommendations: I’m looking to drop a few pounds myself. Anyway, here goes.

At: Main Squeeze Cafe
Try the: Buddha Bowl

At: International Cafe
Try the: Red lentil soup and hummus

At: Addison’s
Try the: Black Bean and Thai Peanut Wrap

At: Red and Moe
Try the: Pizzas, fresh pastas, small plates

At: Broadway Brewery
Try the: Polenta Plate, Summer Vegetable Sandwich, Curried Apple Chicken Salad

The Healty(ish) Splurge:
At: Cafe Berlin
Try the: The Starving Artist

4 Quick Notes

International Cafe: According to owner Mohamed Gumati, his (excellent and long-missed) hummus-and-gyro shop will be reopening between Lakota and Main Squeeze sometime the week of June 7.

The Pasta Factory: Columbia’s familiar outpost for middlebrow Italian food has reopened on West Broadway. The location – essentially tucked into a Wal-Mart parking lot – doesn’t inspire, but the handsome bar and familiar decor are tasteful and well-done, rarities on that side of town. The food, for better or worse, will be familiar as well. Ravioli lurk somewhere beneath an ocean of sauce; chicken parmigiana is badly overcooked. On the flip side, the mostaccioli con salsiccia is as good as ever – though served a few thousand degrees hotter than necessary – and the Factory Salad is light and zesty (and reminds us of the Deb’s Garlic at Murry’s and Pogolino’s in Festus). The beer selection (New Belgium Somersault, Schlafly APA, a wittbier) is a winner as well.

Bleu Restaurant & Wine Bar: I stopped in for lunch the other day when they were running a “Comfort Food for Joplin” fundraiser. Chicken and dumplings, mac ‘n cheese and (especially) duck confit shepherd’s pie were all outstanding. One place that probably deserves a more elevated position on your radar screen than it gets.

Red and Moe’s: There’s enough about Red and Moe to keep an army of haters busy. The crust is too crackery, the menu too weird and the prices too high. It’s a love it/hate it kind of place, but I’m in the former camp. Their spring menu is focused, largely locally-sourced and excellent; I especially like the blistered radish salad and garlic chive and arugula pizza. I hear the trout salad is excellent as well. Fresh pasta hanging in the kitchen is always a good sign. Try them for lunch when you can get a half pizza, half salad for $11.

4 Quick Notes:

Mississippi Fish Shack: I hope the new location – in a gas station by Macy’s – works for them. The breading may still be too salty for some, but I’m a fan. I like Kim – who brought my son two additional pieces of fish after he scarfed the others down – even more. I try to imagine that happening at…

Red and Moe: They’re not going to match Lombardi’s in anything but price, but the pizza’s above average and the salad’s not bad. For those wondering about the $15 mussels and odd hours, the former wasn’t worth it on my first try and regarding the latter, the owners own the building. I sense this is a hobby as much as a profit-seeking venture. Also, since it’s counter service, ordering a second beer (or another pizza – they’re not large) means another wait in line. Odd.

Wine Cellar and Bistro: Reliable sources indicate the new fall menu is as good as it looks (even if they do spell “shiitake” incorrectly throughout). Particular raves have gone to the pork belly Wellington. Mmm.

House of Chow: Despite raves from others, I remain a skeptic. Pork with hard tofu was another recent letdown and there was nothing special about Mrs. SMEs’ mu shu pork, either. I want to like the place, but it just keeps coming up short when compared to nearby Mandarin House.

4 Quick Notes

Saigon Bistro: Set to open at 912 Broadway, according to The District.

Red and Moe: It’s not going to be a budget destination (I get that the mussels are overnighted, but $16 for a bowl?), but quality ingredients, a focused menu and promising execution are encouraging.

Les Bourgeois: If you’ve never taken a tour of their operation you’re missing out. It’s amazing how much work goes into the process, only to have snide bastards like me rip it to shreds. Anyway, I highly recommend their St. Vincent rose, brut and premium clarets (made from Norton).

Mandarin House: Their jam-bong is not bad at all once you add about two tablespoons of sriracha and a dash of hoisin…otherwise, too plain for so noble a soup. Otherwise, the hot braised fish is one of the best Chinese dishes in town.

Red and Moe is open

Today is opening day for Red and Moe, a pizza joint with a promisingly-focused menu and one of Columbia’s nicest spaces.